Monday, December 6, 2010

Just Add Coconut Milk

Greetings, American-lings. Sorry for my extended alienation from the communicative world, but I am alive and well, about 10 pounds lighter, much more freckly, a bit more blonde, and slightly more faka-Tonga (Tongan). I am back on the main island (Tongatapu) as of yesterday, when I flew in from Ha'apai as the ending of my PST, pre-service training. PST included 4 weeks of language training and 3 1/2 weeks of technical (education) training. It was a bit tiring and slightly overwhelming at times, but it was amazing! My host family was sooooo great!
Here are some brief hilights of my time on Ha'apai:
--My morning exercise (fakamalohisino) was accompanied by 3 great lady friends, a hilarious pack of dogs, pigs that the dogs loved to chase, and occasional chickens that squawked at our Palangi (white people) intrusion.
--I now speak a Tongan-English creole mix. Just wait until I talk to you on the phone. Then you'll understand. Or maybe you won't understand. Tehe.
--I sang in church with my host family, who I call the Von Trapps faka-Tonga. (Like from the Sound of Music.)
--My house was very Palangi...running water from the sima vai (water tank that Australians donated to all Tongan houses), a sink, a cold shower (which is great in such hot weather,) and 3 ovens! The ovens are because my former host mom is the bread baker for Foa, the island. She's pretty terrific.
--Baking was a huge event for my village group...pies, cakes, fried rice, potato casserole... my mom also loved it, because I taught her new recipes and gave her a journal of recipes for a going-away present!
--Tongans cook many dishes with coconut milk, and it is ifo aupito! (very delicious)
--I've probably swallowed a decent amount of small bones of fish and chicken and mutton because boneless meat does not exist here.
--Lava-lavas (sarongs) are ingenious. They are great for lounging AND going to the beach. Here, unless you're in the capital, you only wear pants/long shorts for fakamalohisino (exercise...remember?) :)
--For Thanksgiving, we Peace Corps Trainees and staff had a feast and it was great. My group made caramel pies, sweet potato pies (used with the delish purple sweet potatoes here...the pies were so pretty), a strawberry/yellow marble cake, and brownies. We were a hit.
--I've sang and played ukulele more here than I probably have my whole life, if you can beleive it. It's great though!
--For culture day, our last day in Ha'apai, I did the tau'olunga, basically a single ladies' dance. I wore tapa cloth, which pretty much turned into a strapless dress that they had to pin so my huhu (boobs) wouldn't fall out, and I was coated in oil so passers-by/supporters of the dance could stick money on me. Oh yeah, I rocked it. I'll post the video as soon as I can.
--My PC friends here are AMAZING!!! I have friends from all over now...so when I go back, I can tuh-ravvvellll, woot woot!
--Surprisingly, there are more midwesterners and southerners than far-Westies or North-easties. It's definitely not what I expected.
--There are 26 PC trainees (future volunteers...as of in a week and a day!) in our group, Group 76.
--I have a friend from Maine! Isn't that exciting?!!
--Coconut water is brilliantly awesome.
--I have a cell phone... please let me know if you want my number!
--Tongan choirs are great....a bit loud sometimes when they scream, but all around, it's awesome.
--I nicknamed my former host dad "mui mana", which translates to 'butt thunder." You can probably understand why.
--I'm constantly debating whether or not to cut my hair. Surprised?
--I can't believe it's almost Christmas. Holy moly. Hot weather and coconut trees do not communicate Christmas to me.
--Research "kava ceremonies" in the Pacific Islands... I will probably talk about it in the future. In a nutshell, I was a toua, which means server.
--I've read two great books, one is "The Left Hand of Darkness" by Ursula Leguin...my friend Whitney (whose wedding I was supposed to be in in Oct.) gave it to me, along with a million other books, and I loved it!
--So far, I've gotten two cards and one package. I've sadly not written as much as I thought I would during training, but I will have lots of free time in January, so hopefully i'll get more letters out!
--I have an awesome traditional Tongan outfit that my host family had made for me... it's a yellow with a top and tupenu (traditional skirt thing) with sea shells, turtles, and a kava bowl on it. Super cool.
--Google 'kiekie' or 'ta'ovala'. That's what we wear every day.
--It is now weird for me to see a guy in pants. I often do a double take.
--I have sexy tanlines on my arms. Really sexy ones.
--I wake up every morning to roosters, who, despite what you see in movies, do not only crow at 4-5 am. They also open their obnoxious beaks at 7 and 8 and 9 and 12 and 2 and 5 and 7 and 9... I friggin hate roosters now.
--I've been to one putu (funeral), and it was interesting. I have a video for it, too.

That's all I can think of now. In really important news, I will be sworn in (assuming all goes well...which means passing the oral Tongan exam and the policies test) on Dec. 15th, so my service starts Dec. 16th.
*Just a side note, I can't tell specific info. such as names (without permission) or my specific location. Oh, and my views and opinions are not the views and opinions of Peace Corps. I kind of had to do that.

Peace out, homedogs. I shall update soon, I hope!

2 comments:

  1. You are my hero Jamie! I want to hear you play ukelele SO FREAKING BAD! Then we will sing somewhere over the rainbow. Oh, and you best be careful covering yourself in oils and getting money stuck to you. Thats not culturally acceptable in Allen County! HAHAHAHA. Omg, I am so proud of you. You are such a BAMF, and I cant wait to hear your accent! Have a great time Nuva Ring Twin!

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  2. I love you Craig. You're totally awesome.

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